Brienno: What to See in the small Village on Como Lake

Brienno is a village perched on the shores of Lake Como, preserved in its timeless beauty. Off the most popular tourist routes, Brienno offers charming glimpses of stone stairways and narrow alleys. What is there to see in Brienno?

Brienno lies on the western shore of Lake Como, embraced by Mount Briante and Mount San Bernardo. On one side, the harshness of rock and mountain; on the other, the soft, rippling surface of the water. Brienno’s houses face directly onto the lake, almost suspended. Across the water, like lovers sharing a window, lies the village of Nesso with its famous gorge.

Brienno is little known—even among locals. I myself discovered it by chance through a flyer advertising its Christmas markets.

Visiting it was one of the best decisions I’ve made—I returned two weekends in a row!

The atmosphere in Brienno is truly unique. It feels like stepping back in time, when Lake Como was still unknown and people lived by fishing and farming. Go, before it’s too late!

Origins of the Village

Brienno’s origins are Celtic, with traces of the population dating back to the 4th century BC.

Later, Brienno became a Roman colony. Around the year 1000, the village took part in the Ten Years’ War. It came under the control of Milan and then became a fief of the Bishop of Como.

During Spanish rule, Brienno was granted to the Gallio family. It only became an independent municipality in 1948. Before that, it was part of neighboring Laglio, now famous for Villa Oleandra—George Clooney’s summer residence.

What to See in Brienno

Brienno is built on steep terrain, so the first thing to admire are its houses. The buildings develop vertically, with their foundations resting directly in the lake.

The old village is often called a labyrinth. The historic center winds through narrow alleys, steep staircases, underpasses, and arcades carved into the rock that will delightfully disorient you.

If you have the chance, arrive by water—by private boat or ferry—for an even more magical experience. From the lake, Brienno looks like a nativity scene, a name it’s often given. It’s no coincidence that one of the most famous Christmas markets on the lake takes place here.

Church of Sant’Anna

The Church of Sant’Anna is located outside the main village, along the Via Regina road leading into town.

It was once dedicated to Saint Victor and still bears both names. It’s one of the oldest historic buildings on Lake Como, with a bell tower dating back to the 11th century.

La Turascia

Also outside the historic center are the remains of an ancient defensive tower. La Turascia is part of a Byzantine-era fortification. In the 1600s, it was used as a lazaretto during the plague, also described by Manzoni.

The Old Silk Mill

Located between the modern pier and the small port of Rola, the old silk mill was Brienno’s silk production factory. Up to the 1930s, it was one of the village’s main economic activities.

It was converted into a villa in the 1960s and now serves as a tourist accommodation. The renovation preserved the 17th-century layout and its beautiful portico.

Church of Saints Nazaro and Celso

This is Brienno’s main church, perched dramatically over the lake.

Inside, it houses original 16th-century stained glass, a 1500s altarpiece by Andrea de’ Passeri, and 17th-century paintings by local artist Gian Paolo Recchi.

In front of the church is the War Memorial—a bronze statue of an alpine soldier hurling a stone, commemorating those who left for the Libyan War and ran out of ammunition under enemy attack.

The Historic Center

The old village was once closed off by a mountain gate, which no longer exists. A castle also stood uphill but has left no trace.

Brienno still preserves the authentic atmosphere of lake villages. Tourism hasn’t yet taken hold, and the liveliest time of year is Christmas, when locals decorate every alley and open ancient caves to sell handcrafted goods.

Stroll along the risciade, the local name for cobbled streets. The stone gallery offers wonderful views of the lake and the little Möll harbor. Let yourself be enchanted by alleys and staircases—get lost in this charming maze.

Imagine the lives of old fishermen on their lake boats—the gondole lariane and comballi. Distances here are short, and you’ll reach the end of the village in just a few minutes.

Church of the Madonna del Ronco

The Church of the Madonna del Ronco, also known as the Church of the Immaculate Virgin, is located on a rocky spur along the coast. Locals refer to the area as Puncett.

The church is not architecturally remarkable, but its location and the view make it unmissable.

Demolition Gallery

Beneath the churchyard of the Madonna del Ronco lies a wartime tunnel dating back to World War I.

The Galleria del Puncett was part of the “Cadorna Line,” built to block potential invasions from the north into the Po Valley.

Its good state of preservation allows visitors to access the bunkers and service rooms carved into the rock.

Visits must be booked in advance or taken during special open days organized throughout the year.

Hiking in the Mountains of Brienno

Many trails start from Brienno. The most scenic is the Botanical Garden Trail, where explanatory signs describe the local flora along the way.

This was once a livestock transhumance path, also known as the “Sentiero dell’Alpe.”

The walk follows a mid-altitude route along the mountainside and offers breathtaking views of Lake Como. It can be hiked year-round without special equipment. The walk takes about three hours but may vary depending on pace.

To Wrap Up…

If you prefer a relaxing day, Brienno is perfect in summer for sunbathing. Lakeside beaches and cafés in the village or nearby towns let you bask right by the water’s edge.

Discover more: If you enjoyed Brienno, explore other destinations on Lake Como and download the complete Brienno guide